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People, it's only Friday. Save the self-righteous "nobody remembers what Memorial Day is really about" Facebook posts for like Sunday at the earliest, okay?

I got into a political argument on someone else's FB post today, only the other person never actually responded to me, just to a different person, and it's actually a bit hilarious. It brings out my inner troll (ie, my father's genes) and just encourages me.

Filled in more businesses on my Main St map! There are only a handful left, and I don't know if it's going to be possible to figure them out at all. Some are on the lower floors of what's labeled on the 1905 Sanborn maps as Yates's Hotel and Richardson's Hotels, for instance, and I can't find any newspaper evidence of hotels of that name existing in Canton at all. Which is pretty much the deal with everything left. In a lot of cases, I've been able to use the 1891 business directory to trace a property's changes in ownership, but some of them I just don't find any reference to in the newspaper at all. I know that Lucius Prescott had a saloon under one of the hotels, but it's never mentioned outside of the directory. Another saloon (oh dear, semantic satiation after the research today) was sold to A. H. Hoard in the early 1890s, and the last reference to it is in 1895, when it was denied a liquor license because the board suspected that it had been sold to A. Senter, a merchant of Potsdam. Alpheus Senter went bankrupt in 1900 and drowned himself in 1902, no mention of what business he was in, whether he'd sold it to anyone, or what happened to it after his bankruptcy.

I liked the first season of Wayward Pines, but I have to admit that I'm disappointed that they decided the show needed to continue the story by adding a new white guy as a new arrival. For a few obvious reasons.

How's the weather where you are? It's ungodly hot here. We had about a week where it was down to 35ish at night, still pretty chilly when I went to work, and comfortable (65ish) when I went home ... and then suddenly, over the course of a weekend, it switched to being 65 at night and 85 during the day. I'm not comfortable. At least it's supposed to storm this weekend.

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I posted my excitement at finding another 1890s article about prostitution in Canton to FB, and later deleted it because it probably made me look like a weird prostitute obsessive? But come on, it's so interesting.

Today was a day of embarrassment anyway. Patricia C. Wrede joined Reddit to do an AMA for /r/fantasywriters, and even after it ended she's stuck around and comments on threads - I sent her a message telling her I thought it was so cool that she's still there, that her writing's been so influential for me, and that my username is a reference to Sorcery & Cecilia. It seemed like a good idea at the time! I also realized when I got home that I left what was left of my yoghurt open and out on the counter. Stupid, stupid.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/904731.html - comment wherever you please.
So there's a video going around Facebook of people making hard candy with panda faces on them, and watching them manipulate huge pieces of cooling candy was seriously exhausting. Kneading it, rolling it out ... ugh, my arms hurt in solidarity. Of course, I'm also tired as heck because I woke up so early (I brought back a airline sleep mask from home to block out the sun, but I'm still waking up at 5:30, wtf) but the kneading is a big part of it.

I am SO glad I took the sleeves off Butterick 6018 and started wearing it. (Man, is it just me or does Butterick have the worst photoshopper? Look at her right side, they've made her waist in a really weird place - and look at the image of her from straight on, why is her arm all pale and fuzzy in places?) Everyone loves it. A woman shouted to me from a car that it was a nice dress when I went to get the mail today. Oh, and I wore it with the Gibsons. I'm going to wear them every day. You don't understand.

Housewifely stuff from my Tuesday off: made great strides with Butterick 6582, I even box-pleated the skirt in place, and I'm going to sew it any minute now (but I'm so tired); made jam with the cherries I'd paid way too much for and let get overripe. The jam is very good, but a little thicker than I think I wanted? Haven't picked up yet, which I desperately need to do. Once I finish the dress! I also patterned the Swirl dress. I'll put it up on my blog once I get around to making mine. It's not actually a difficult pattern, but figuring out how to grade it up to a 40" bust might be tricky ... it has an angled side dart and a dart in the armscye. Why are none of the patterns I buy easy to do FBAs to??

Attached the skirt to the bodice. I try not to judge any dress until I put in the zipper because they always look bad at this stage, but it looks really bad at this stage! I think that means it's going to look really good when it's done.

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Over the past year or so, I seem to have gradually replaced the psychological symptoms of PMS with cramps. :/ It's nice not to feel like a total worthless jerk anymore, but waking up in the middle of the night because the cramps are that bad sucks hard, and so does feeling like I can't eat anything in the morning.

I've also realized that my not being able to fall asleep under my light quilt (rather than the duvet) is probably an anxiety issue, and I'm thinking about weighted blankets. Anyone have experience with those?

Over the weekend, I went to Dad's - so relaxing (minus the cramps). On Saturday we went to the piano/voice recital Bella's fellow students put on; it was kind of awful, way too much piano and it went on a lot longer than we were led to believe, which was an issue as it was held in a church and we were all sitting in pews, and I'd just driven four hours and had a migraine starting because of some nasty traffic. Sunday was really all about hanging out and FINDING MY GIBSONS, I FOUND MY GIBSONS, ISN'T THAT AMAZING??? And then this morning Dad worked from home, so we got to hang out more. Owen had been hiking with his gf on Saturday, so they were both there that night - she's perfectly nice, and I like her more than his last one (who was really possessive of him), but I just don't really like her. Dad and Owen and I watched GoT together, which was hilariously even more awkward than usual because of that tight close-up on that actor's junk.

This morning, I was wearing my newly de-sleeved dress and had my hair up in a bun - I forget what I was doing, but Dad came downstairs and said I really reminded him of his paternal grandmother, which was Deeply Meaningful as he barely ever talks about his family. He says the only thing he ever understood her saying to him and his brother (she was Sicilian, and probably spoke English by the 1960s but I guess with a really strong accent) was, "Eat, eat!" That's the kind of thing that makes me deeply satisfied to dress like a crazy person. That and when I got home one of my neighbors - who'd actually been away in Latham over the weekend, very very close to where I was - told me how much she likes the way I dress, too. I AM ART.

Total subject change, but: I was starting to get involved writing ~sexy comics~ scripts for a purveyor of ~sexy comics~, but the editing process, ugh, I do not have the time for this, not worth the money.

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Let me tell you about the new twist my exhibition's taken on: an app where you can walk down Main St and learn what was in each building (or in the case of the other, more depressing side of the street, what building was there) in 1900. I thought this would be simple, but it is DANG COMPLICATED. I have a business directory from 1891, which I don't think is 100% accurate anyway, and a huge number of addresses are given like "Main n[ear] Hodskin [St]" which is not super helpful. Then I have a telephone directory from 1907, which doesn't have addresses, but can at least assure me that a business from 1891 existed through 1907. I also have Sanborn fire maps from 1898 and 1905, which only have a few businesses actually named (mainly factories/mills), but have most of the buildings labeled with the type of business. I'm filling all the rest of the details in with the newspapers. Fortunately I have a brother who's a web developer/coder and will do that end while I make all the text and images. The really cool thing is that it leaves the possibility open to branch out to later update it with information on businesses off Main (Eagle House, Commercial House, the Canton Steam Laundry). I guess I should probably include the houses I've done on Miner for the exhibition ... and then houses on other streets ... or maybe we could do a 1920 or 1930 edition? 1933 is the date of the next business directory we have, and I bet they used PROPER numbering for buildings and houses. Oh, and then maybe I can reinterview my 99yo! I love this project.

Somebody is doing fireworks and I have no idea why. It sounds like a big show, too! Hm, it's apparently Senior Week at SLU.

Interesting that Bones decided to do a Glee episode several years after the show ended.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/904086.html - comment wherever you please.
Pinned 6582's darts this evening! That's easily my least favorite sewing step, so I was glad to get it done. Second least favorite is gathering, which I'm doing by hand from now on as the tension on my machine is so tight that it's next to impossible.

Vintage Simplicity 1749 came today - it turns out it's actually got a side zipper instead of being a functional shirtdress, so I'm going to do a little fiddling and it shouldn't be too hard. (The woman I bought it from described it as a "classic housedress" so I assumed it was made to go on more simply.)

I am thisclose to cutting all my hair off into a bob. I really love how that soft, dead follicle product feels down my back ... but I always love it when it's short, too! Today it just would not stay up in my big hairpin, the bun kept sliding down, and while my reasoning for not cutting it is generally "I like being able to put it up," if I can't actually put it up then what's the point?

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/903830.html - comment wherever you please.
Farewell, Castle. Now I can stop feeling obligated to watch you out of habit. I hope the rumors about Nathan Fillion's behavior are false, but if they aren't it's a good thing the show finally got axed. Also, that was a terrible ending.

The Family spoilersCollapse )

It's so hard to get motivated to sew summer clothes when it gets to about 60 degrees as a high. It's mid-May! It's mid-May and I'm still wearing wool dresses and opaque tights to work. I want to wear my pretty ghillies!

I know I say this all the time, but it's just so infuriating when people talk to me like I'm not the collections manager, and I don't know what to do about it. Whether I'm dressed up or dressed down I look young, and it's unavoidable for people to assume that I'm there for admin when I'm sitting at a computer and greeting people when they come in. This guy today was a bit of a mansplainer, too (about how I should want mannequins instead of dress forms, and I need to look up Dorfman) ... and then someone on Facebook thought I needed an explanation of Regency corsets *facepalm* and I got a one-star review this month on Amazon. Also, I'm falling asleep sitting up. When I go home I'm bringing back a sleep mask! I keep waking up before six.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/903610.html - comment wherever you please.
I love a really productive day. I'm still going to take an extra long weekend so I can go to dad's and do nothing, but I love a productive day.

This morning I ate eggs(!) instead of a bagel and then went to a dance acquaintance's house to interview a 99yo woman who grew up in Canton, and while I only got a little bit of information that was useful to the exhibition, it was a fascinating talk. Went to Peebles to look for shoes, and while I didn't get exactly the kind I wanted, I got some cute slingback sandals (in brown) and a three-pack of neutral Nyx matte lipsticks. Came home and took the sleeves off a dress I made last summer that was unsatisfactory because a) the sleeves made it so warm, b) the sleeves were too tight, and c) the pointed, flared cuffs took the dress from "cute retro outfit" to "costume from Hairspray". Then I went to the grocery store and did not buy pizza dough, but did in fact buy two loaves of bread that were on sale and put them in the freezer, and when I got home I made vegetable stock and froze it into ice cubes. DOMESTIC GODDESS.

Sorry, I have to brag about getting things done because I don't live with anyone so nobody would know otherwise.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/903092.html - comment wherever you please.

CA:CW

I went to see Civil War, and I have some thoughts about how I would have done it.

Read more...Collapse )

Apart from that, I've basically finished my drawers. I'm very happy with them! They're actually kind of cute, now that the legs have been shortened with tucks and hem.

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Had a great time with our 1920s tea party today! I wore my Savoys for the first time (some rubbing and stiffness but no blisters, and I think they just need breaking in, although my Renoirs never needed to be broken in ...) and approximated 1920s dress with a skirt and untucked top. There were only seven kids, but they were all peppy and happy to learn the Charleston. Such cuties. The only sour note is that I thought I looked good but then saw a few pictures that were taken of me at the event, and it's like ... you can see my horrible side creases through my shirt, and with it not tucked in I have the thickest waist. Suuuuuuuucks. I've lost a little weight recently but clearly not very much. Part of me wants to give up bagels for a while and see if that helps, but I really, really love a bagel with cream cheese in the morning.

Apparently I'm in a spendy mood again. (I've just been in a bloody weird mood for about a week and a half, tbh.) Bought an actual vintage shirtwaist dress pattern in a 36 bust, which is the pre-FBA size I need for shoulders. I'm excited to try to make it, I've never used a vintage pattern and I want to see if the rumors about them being better than repro patterns are true. I also bought a bonnet kit from Larkin & Smith (on sale) because I've always wanted one, and I'm considering buying a Swirl dress - I've also always wanted one, and I could take a pattern, make one for myself, and sell digital downloads as-is (ungraded). And then resell it, because the one I'm looking at is 36-28-irrelevant and I'm more like 40-31-42. And I'm gonna go see Civil War tomorrow.

I also bought shoes lately, but I have to send them back because they're too tight in the toe. I only bought them because the Golden Ponies shoes didn't work out - also too tight in the toe. Stupid big toes! I got the size the size chart told me in both cases. The Golden Ponies ones can't go back, but I feel weird about reselling them online because they'll see. :/

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/902503.html - comment wherever you please.
Ugh, today. I need a week off - I just can't deal with the emails from people who don't realize that I have a million things to do and the passive-aggression. I do have an interesting blog post I'm working on that I tap away at from time to time (I justify it because it's on turn-of-the-century Canton, plus also prostitution) and tomorrow is the kiddie 1920s tea dance and both of those help, but I need some time off.

I also need to do something with that Early 19th Century Life group! Nobody ever posts to it except to sell things, and I'm not in love with the quality of what's being sold ... I'm going to try to revitalize it somehow. Even if I have to just post dresses and artifacts to it every day.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/902372.html - comment wherever you please.
Is it just me, or is every celebrity endorsement/spokesperson on tv these days a comedian? Ellie Kemper, Nasim Pedrad, Cecily Strong, Jay Pharaoh, [that other guy in the Old Navy ad with the previous three], Tina Fey, Alec Baldwin, Jim Gaffigan ... Right??

Bought an Almay lip balm/gloss and a tinted Burt's Bees lip balm today because sometimes the lipstick is just too much, but nothing is too pale. It felt very extravagant but this is a pay week so oh well. Speaking of money, the used car lot I gave my info (so they could contact me about small sedans between 50k and 80k miles) called me back and left a message and the thought of listening to it, and therefore having to make an expensive decision down the line, is giving me the anx.

I like a lot of aspects of Houdini & Doyle - I'm actually happy with the costuming, that police uniform is well done - but the heavy-handed treatment of sexism and feminism, while common to the genre, are wearing. (Also, the second episode is kind of wtf in that respect??) Plus, wasn't Houdini just as eager to find proof of the paranormal as Doyle? Not a skeptic?

So lately I've sewn 1940s tap pants, 1860s drawers, and a 1950s slip. None of them are totally done, but the basic bodies of all of them are together with various amounts of finishing. I'm not sure I made the pattern pieces the right size for the slip - it's a use-the-ruler-for-your-bust-size system, and it just seems to be a bit small. Also the skirt isn't very full, I could definitely use a ruffle on the bottom to fill it out.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/901840.html - comment wherever you please.
Not going anywhere for Mother's Day. :( It turns out that the rain did not magically fix my frozen brake caliper. I was on my way to the English Country Dance practice/pizza dinner when I pulled over because it seemed like I was getting a lot of drag - I just couldn't get up to 55mph. So I missed that, and now I'm missing seeing my mom, gramma, and brother today. :( :(

I feel like the rain is making me even more self-loathing and bad-feeling about all of this, which is weird as I normally love rainy days, they remind me of Edinburgh and I have an excuse to sit around and sew. But I COULD HAVE HEADED THIS OFF IF I'D GOTTEN THE CAR FIXED LAST WEEKEND and I SHOULD HAVE FOUND A NEW CAR SOMETIME WITHIN THE PAST YEAR. Well, I think it's stoked a little by someone vaguebooking something that could plausibly be interpreted as about myself, but it's mostly the stupid stupid car issues.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/901602.html - comment wherever you please.
Ahhh, more fabric arrived today! It's always a nice surprise when you get a package from Fashion Fabrics Club, because it takes so long that you've forgotten what you ordered by the time it gets there. I got another very light cotton with a kind of shamrock print on it (B5708?), a solid turquoise and a solid green in a slightly heavier weight (a bit more like sheeting), a terrible floral print knit I got to make underwears from but it's not the right kind of knit so I guess it will be a t-shirt?, a broadcloth with a kind of tall grass print, and something with a bit more body in another floral print. Washed them all in the tub, along with my cotton voile (definitely silky enough for a slip) and pimatex, and then machine-dried them to preshrink them. Which unfortunately was a waste of $1, because most of them didn't fully dry and therefore probably didn't really do any preshrinking. Sigh.

Work on the exhibition is going well! I found glass plate negatives of two of the houses on the block, plus a few portraits of people who lived there. It's a weirdly undocumented street, but I've got some illustrations now. I wish I could have a dressed mannequin to go with it, but there's just nowhere to put one.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/901237.html - comment wherever you please.

I meant to write last night but forgot.

I finally washed and ironed the tropical cotton I got from FFC, and it turned out to be basically a turquoise ground with a very broad pattern down either side. It'd be fair to call it a border print, although the border is about as wide as the empty center section. The dress I want to make from it has a full-ish skirt that gathers to the waist except at the front; it's flared a bit and has a curved hem. Should I:

a) cut the skirt as the pattern indicates, on the grain and with a slight curve at the bottom

or

b) cut the skirt as rectangular blocks and pleat instead of gathering (since gathering is already asking for thick-waistedness and adding more fabric isn't going to help)

or

c) cut the skirt as rectangular blocks, but dart it to curve into the shape of the original pattern pieces and then gather as instructed?

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Finally had a few breakthroughs with the exhibition - someone showed me where the grantor/grantee indexes for the county are online, which helped me to connect a few of the property owners in 1900 (the census I'm using for the exhib), when they were just listed, with those around in 1930, when there are reliable house numbers written on the page. Unfortunately, I can only see the actual deeds up to 1899 online and will have to go in to the County Clerk to see the ones that I've jotted down, and that helps zero with the renters - but I've finally put together a map of the street with relatively little conjecture, and it paints an interesting picture of wealthier owners on the east side of the street and poorer renters on the west, along the river. There are a couple of families that seem to be basically undocumented except for that single census, but others make up for it with obituary anecdotes and wide paper trails. I'm going to have to write a blog post about it, because it's giving me so many feels.

I stayed off Facebook today, which was awesome. Can't argue if I don't see it!

Last night I scaled up the tap pants from the computer screen, and cut up my worst pair of the underwears I like for a pattern. They were so stretched out that the result is not symmetrical, which is a problem, but easily solved. And then today I finally remembered to print out the scale rulers and the base pattern for the slip! Having the butcher paper to draw patterns on is so good, I've been a chump for using newspaper for so long. It was like $25 for this huge roll! I'm still going to have to tape two pieces together for the front of the slip, since it has a flared skirt and is fitted with a waist dart, but the back pieces should be fine.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/900727.html - comment wherever you please.
"Taking a small section of a street on an historical census and expanding on all of the occupants" was, if I may say so myself, a bombshell exhibition idea, but it rests on being able to put them in context on the street - both for aesthetic purposes, and to help the audience connect with these people - and I just cannot figure out what houses they were living in. I'm using a 1900 census with no house numbers, and to make some sense of it I have a map from 1864 with house-owner names (only two were still in their houses by 1900) and a 1905 map with no names. The 1890 census was CRUELLY TAKEN FROM US EVEN THOUGH I ALWAYS NEED IT, and when I compare it to the names along the same street in 1910 and 1920 (the latter of which does actually have house numbers), a) there are a bunch of people who've moved away/died and b) the order of the names still there is not similar, so I don't even know wtf the census takers were doing, just wandering around here there and everywhere.

My butcher paper arrived, so exciting! I'm completely sick of using newspapers. Now I just have to remember to print out the scaled-down tap pants pattern (it's from VeraVenus and has legs a bit longer than these, which I've used before - I want something to protect my thighs in the summer) and slip pattern when I'm at work, because I don't have a printer here. I've also just got the lingerie elastic. It's in so many colors, and there's so much of it! The per-yard-price difference between the SewSassy stuff and what you get from Dritz is amazing.

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New patterns + new season = need for new fabric. I suppose it's a cheaper hobby than some things, but I'm not sure what. But I am going to be SO sharp this summer. One of last year's dresses just doesn't spark joy, you know? I also got a yard of jersey and a bunch of lingerie elastic because I am going to go underwear crazy. That's one of those things that has been hard for me to get into gear and make, but from what I've read it's going to be super easy and of course much cheaper than buying them. You can just churn them out by the dozen. Plus I got the Mrs. Depew full-skirted slip pattern, because I keep finding lawns I really like for dresses and would rather make a slip than line them, and because I've needed a slip all winter to deal with my skirts climbing my legs. So, uh, yeah.

(The patterns I got: Butterick B5748, B6582, B5708, and B5953. I've decided not to bother with short-sleeved dresses anymore because they feel too hot in the summer, and I can layer them either with an undershirt or a sweater before it's really hot.)

I did hold back from getting any bathing suit patterns, but I'm going to need to do that soon because my old suit is unflattering and the boob cups aren't big enough. And the ones on Bare Necessities are so expensive. There's a retro swimsuit pattern at Butterick that's basically the same as the suit I have now, but the vertical ruching is a big part of the problem; I was going to use Mrs. Depew's, but then I noticed it has a zipper (???) which seems impractical for swimwear.

I've also been looking at updo tutorials this morning, because a) if I'm ever going to wear these '50s hats, I need a decent foundation for them and b) I'm getting tired of the crossed braids. But as usual it's an exercise in frustration. My forehead is just SO BIG that the hair won't fall right in front, and my hair's too long so it sticks out of things, and to top it all off I'm just very bad at doing hair. There's a part of me that wants to cut it back above my shoulders so it can look styled even when down, but at the same time I like the feel of long hair, so no decision as yet.

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The long antique & artisan sale nightmare is over! I handled it all much better than last year - in part because I worked really hard to make sure we had young college-student help to move tables around the school, and in part because I just felt more confident about my place there being to just walk around and mingle (so I didn't feel like I should be Doing Something). I ended up spending. There was one vendor with really good prices, and I bought a box of sheet music, two linen tea towels embroidered with scottie dogs, six 1950s hats which I'm totally going to get into wearing at some point (no), and four or five pairs of leather gloves, unfortunately none white as the white pair had been bought earlier. And a framed late 1860s fashion plate from a different dealer. In the silent auction, I won a pearl necklace, a Noritake two-tier candy plate, a glass candy dish, a porcelain candy dish, and a bud vase (the last three came together and I only wanted the first one). I'd also bid on a couple of other things in order to encourage other people, like the tiny antique pump organ, but fortunately my plan worked and I didn't have to take them home.

But it did kill my legs. I just walked back and forth, back and forth, occasionally sitting but never really for long enough. And I still have to go to the store today for more pads. :( :( :( :(

Brakes on my car are dying. :( On Friday afternoon, I took the long way to deliver some of our supplies to the school for the show so I could fill up my slow-leak tire, and when I started the car up again after fixing the tire it just felt ... wrong. When I got to the school, smoke was pouring off the front left brake. The caliper froze. It sucked and I was really upset for a while, but after it sat in the rain all evening it started working again. Haven't driven it since. I know I need to take it to the garage but I'm just so sick of fixing things on this car. Time to call a few dealerships or something I guess, UGH, I don't want to have to do this on my own because I don't know what I'm doing.

I'm going to go see The Boss to cheer myself up, I think. I have to get dressed and go for the week's bagels first, though, so I can get in before the college students.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/899382.html - comment wherever you please.
Going in to work late today! Have to stay until 9 for the Zonta Club dinner, so I'll be in after lunch and voting. Hopefully I can vote - the NYS polling-place finder doesn't have me in it at all, for here or Greenwich, so ...

Got into a fight on and thought about leaving the Rev War Reenactors FB group. Which is worse, men who get really defensive if an unthinking bias against women's activities (not even by them!) gets brought up, or women who feel the need to defend them and make fun of people talking about the bias? I'm glad Sharon Burnston and I are complaining buddies. (We are complaining buddies, I'm totally name-dropping here.)

I thought my lips were really chapped, but now I think my lip balm was irritating them. It must be one of the flavorings/perfumes - I never had any trouble with the Eos pomegranate/raspberry, but the "summer fruits" one is what I've been using lately.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/899128.html - comment wherever you please.

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