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e. st v. millay
This time I did read [personal profile] erinpuff's comments before writing my own, so.

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Sep. 14th, 2014

e. st v. millay
Finished 1808 today! What I can't figure out is why LBA keeps saying the waist is getting lower and lower while showing them in the same place. Are your writers and illustrators even talking? I can't tell if it's one of those things where it was a matter of very slight change being treated as a big deal (like "omg short skirts!" in the early 1920s), or if it's wishful thinking and someone was trying to lower the waist by pretending it was happening.

Made a honey spice cake, did the thing where you just put the frosting between the layers and not enrobing it. It's not pretty enough to Instagram, but it tastes nice.

Cannot believe how cold it's gotten. Wasn't it in the 80s here last week? And now I've had to turn on the furnace for a bit because it was freezing all morning.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/796111.html - comment wherever you please.

Well, this birthday was not a wash

e. st v. millay
- I did work a full 8.5 hr shift, but I was never bored. (Although I just realized how little money I made and that kind of ruined it.)

- After work I poshed it up and bought the nice 9-grain bread, plus a half gallon of local whole milk to make more yogurt.

- The Curator of Gloves (WHAT A JOB TITLE) from the Fashion Museum connected with me on LinkedIn.

- Mom gave me a big tupperware to put my yogurt in!

- Dad gave me Marrying Mr Darcy!

- Doing a Community rewatch and it's so good even on the fifth or sixth time through.

- I got an email that means I might get my first advance sometime soon!

ETA: aahhhhhhh I just spent so much money on silk and cotton for Regency dresses I probably won't even finish because I fail at this hobby /o\

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/795409.html - comment wherever you please.

Today in exciting updates

e. st v. millay
Very tired of the fandom represented at the Real Tudor Confessions blog - YOU PEOPLE DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE POINT OF A CONFESSIONS COMMUNITY - but I can't stop following it.

More hats today. Fortunately I quickly finished up the 1950s hats and moved backwards in time to cloches, those ugly little 1880s-1890s caps, and a couple of drawn bonnets. I finished up the three shelves of boxes, but there are five shelves of unboxed hats ... fortunately, there are probably three or four boxes worth of hats on each shelf, so that should only take a couple of hours next week and then I can move onto shoes, I think. Brookside's camera is very good, but I'm not sure how I'm going to photograph dresses when I get to them, so I'll stick to the small things for right now.

I need to go take a shower so I can get enough sleep but I think I'm trying to pretend I don't have to be at work by 7 tomorrow morning.

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Sep. 9th, 2014

e. st v. millay
My leg hurts even worse today, probably because I did very little for it yesterday and then went for my usual 1.5 mile walk. :( Now instead of just a muscle in my hip, it's also a muscle in my calf and another in my foot.

Yesterday I took the opportunity to finish off my stays à la paresseuse (apart from the hook and eye). They work okay and I'm going to use them for a good while, but there's something awkward/insecure-feeling about them. I think there's not enough pull-back on the shoulders, but also some gusset issues. I didn't cut the slits quite deep enough, and I ALWAYS make the gussets the wrong shape, too triangular, too wide at the top and not wide enough at the bottom. But this is still way better than my terrible thesis stays.

So now I can finally think about dresses! Yes, I could shrinkify my ugly pink striped dress, and I may very well do that once I'm past my shame and horror of it, but for now it's best for me to start fresh. I'm kinda feeling like this could be my moment for trying out silk! 1805-1807 is what I'm looking at as I want to make a sheer round apron/apron dress to go over it, so maybe a medium blue with some kind of narrow trim on the bottom. I'd like to an applied ribbon channel, the precursor to the wadded hem, but I'm not totally sure how to do it.

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Sep. 8th, 2014

e. st v. millay
The mention of a museum in [profile] mandie_rw's latest post reminded me that someone suggested I try Sturbridge for more 19th century clothing (I am going to have so many extra patterns ... but you know, [profile] wereleopard, my contract only says I can't publish specifically another Regency book ...).

(I still haven't sent you the Pingat yet, have I. DDDD:)

So for future reference, the gowns I'm asking about are 26.33.48, 26.33.37, 26.33.16, 26.33.76, 26.33.63, 26.33.195, 26.33.190a-b, 26.33.166a-b (A DIFFERENT BIB-FRONT), 26.33.134, 26.33.132, and 26.33.55a-b. (The ones I looked at but rejected were 26.33.114, 26.33.61, 26.33.183, 26.33.58, 26.33.35.) I also asked about spencers, because they had some in pictures but I couldn't find the individual records. Let's hope they don't say they charge $50/hr like the Rensselaer HS, or that they can't allow researchers to touch their garments.

Contra dancing last night was unbelievable. I was kind of awkward as ever, but I was in very high demand as a partner, probably because of people being welcoming and my not having any artificial joints - I got swung hard and fast by quite a few spry old men. (One was, I swear, an older and thinner Creed Bratton.) To the point where they overswung me a lot of times and ended up off-beat and with me in the wrong place. My feet are killing me because I wore my character shoes and my left hip aches from the turnouts in the swing. But I had a really good time! I hope I keep up with it and then take the skills to the next Regency dance.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/794611.html - comment wherever you please.

Sorry, it reads like gibberish

e. st v. millay
Sigh. I'd decided that once I did through 1807 in French, I'd do 1806-1807 in English (and from there alternate French and English years), so I started in on that and then realized that I can't add parity in after the fact - the draft is reading like all these details about French fashion and then English is tacked on after the fact as though it's not "real" fashion because it's not from Paris. Technically I should probably leave it as it is and do better going forward, but I find that hard to do, especially as I do a lot of skipping back and forth between sections - it's difficult for me not to adapt to the style already present. So I'm going to beef up the glossary I've started and then mega-streamline the history.

I'm going to a potluck dinner and contra dance this evening and I am extremely :D: about it. As usual, I really want to go but am having the urge to not do it. GO. YOU'LL LOVE IT.

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Quick pre-work post

e. st v. millay
So I had a fun surprise!patterning session on Thursday at the NYSHA storage facility - I didn't think they'd be able to take me on such short notice, but they were, and I hung out with this girl on a fellowship who was cataloguing men's clothing. As expected they have a lot of early 19th century clothing. They gave me printouts of the database search and we went through everything they'd gotten out for me; I nixed about half of it as too late, circled everything I wanted on the printout and then checked off the ones I'd done so that next time they know what I still need to see. What I patterned:

- a pair of 1790s short stays that I WISH I'D SEEN FOR MY THESIS but I didn't even know about this place. But they had no cups and would have been a lot easier to sew as well as being more supportive than what I ended up with. Not going in the book, but I'm going to make them. And maybe put them in my 18th century book when I get around to that.

- a spangled cotton mull ball dress with amazing botehs in the scalloped hem, probably worn over a white underdress. I'm dating it to ca. 1807 for now, but previous visiting experts put it at 1812 and the ~family lore says it was part of someone's trousseau in 1822, which is totally out of the question. I mean, maybe she took it with her when she left home or something, but it was not made for her trousseau and she probably never wore it.

- a print bib-front dress. At first I was really excited because I haven't found any of these to pattern yet, but it really is almost exactly the same pattern as Janet Arnold's. Bias bib, plackets added to the sides of the apron, long, squared train, reverse box pleats in back. Sleeves the same shape, back the same shape. I'll probably include it because a) I don't have any other bib fronts unless I go farther afield and find another big collection and b) it is valuable to show that two gowns have the same construction. But I wish I could find another. (This one was supposedly brought from Scotland by an immigrant in 1800.)

- another evening overdress, also related to the 1822 wedding woman. Later 19th century note attached claims it is her reception dress from after the wedding, but it looks several years later to me (the sleeves are enormous and the embroidery is pretty high on the skirt), and I'm not sure when the custom of changing into a reception gown arose, it seems kind of like a mid/late Victorian assumption based on contemporary habits.

I seem to have some thoughts on Kindle Unlimited. Mainly I think it could potentially be a bad thing for libraries, but I already barely try my library for ebooks anymore as it never has what I'm looking for (no Waugh! no Powell! I WANT TO READ BRIGHT YOUNG FICTION), and I don't think the solution is to handicap other services but to fix the libraries' problem and lower license fees for libraries or something. But I mean really, how many people saying it's wrong to use Kindle Unlimited for books you could get at the library would also think it's wrong to watch old seasons of a show on Netflix instead of getting that from the library too?

So many blog comments to respond to! I hope I get as many next week. IDK if you noticed but Lauren of American Duchess shared the link on FB and I've gotten over 1k hits from that.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/793879.html - comment wherever you please.

Sep. 2nd, 2014

e. st v. millay
FRICK FRACK stupid Revolutionary calendar, my first few folders of Journal fashion plates were labeled a year too late. Just had to go through my draft and change everything between 1797 and 1806.

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Aug. 31st, 2014

e. st v. millay
I can't get over the irony that Labor Day is meant to celebrate unionizing and the improvement of working conditions and today we make a big fuss over it and give people the day off ... yet we also turn it into an opportunity for sales and force everyone in retail to work it. And work twice as hard, because all of the people who have the day off are in the stores, buying stuff when they normally wouldn't. Sad, sad irony.

Updated my LinkedIn profile this morning before work. Used a friend's as a hint for how I should do things, now once again despairing because I've wasted so much time not living in New York and volunteering places. But I literally was at work or class every single day when I was there - in one semester, I had class and work on the same day! But I could have interned half-days after or before class ... Oh well, I am going to start volunteering soon.

I've strained my right middle finger pressing buttons on the Hobart price sticker machine. This is very sad. It's unhappy being extended, I have to type with my right ring finger and press buttons with pointer. Tried icing it, didn't do much. Now pointer is starting to hurt! What now?!

Doctor WhoCollapse )

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WOW

e. st v. millay
Just had the most INTENSE mortality panic attack while taking a shower. Well, technically it wasn't more intense than others I've had, but usually the bad ones are when I'm in bed with the lights off. I was just thinking about how I thought I was done with the quarter life crises last year, but of course I'm still in the middle of it, and then this wave of horror at dying went through me, to the point where my hands were kind of shaky and I dug my fingernails into my side a bit. Nasty.

Work was better today. I think I impressed the AM when we worked together to fill up the front cake case, and I'm coming to an understanding that she may be as sensitive as I am, it's just that while I focus on her and her potential disdain for me, she is focused on the upper level managers and inspectors. While the manager has an air of "eh, you're new, it doesn't really matter," she can't see it that way.

Don't have to be in until nine tomorrow. Nine! Alarm turned off.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/793312.html - comment wherever you please.

Aug. 22nd, 2014

e. st v. millay
How cool would it be to be a curator in a Rockefeller mansion? I mean I know it's a huge reach, but wouldn't it be cool? ... AND THE CYCLE BEGINS AGAIN

From now on I'm going to post more original tweets. And use more hashtags. I have a probably unfounded idea that if I can be more active on Twitter and get more followers, I will get hired. This is probably not the reason I'm not working but hope springs eternal.

Job has progressed, as non-museum jobs always do, from "training, everything comes easily, praise, appearance of strong competency" into "expected to know aspects of job wasn't trained for, anxiety and confusion run amok." Pretty sure every workday that follows will be the same.

Trying to write blog post. It's not going smoothly.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/792288.html - comment wherever you please.

ugh ugh ugh

e. st v. millay
I was ... not "really into" but "okay with" this job at first, when the manager was training me on cake decorating, but she's been on vacation and I've been working with the assistant manager on bagging/baking bread and rolls and she's a PitA. The manager is just more personable, she made sure I didn't feel rushed or confused - the assistant manager keeps walking away while she's talking (so I miss what she's saying), she doesn't have the patience, and from the start of training me she was giving me long lists of verbal instructions, so basically I just feel frustrated and stupid all the time. She also responds to mistakes in a more "now we have a problem" tone of voice while the manager was like, "hey, it's okay." So basically I hate it and try to convince myself all shift that because a) there's very little customer interaction and b) we're making/selling things that people actually consume, it's worth it, but I hate it. Which gets me all fired up to apply to jobs but of course there are no jobs to apply for.

There is a thing I'm thinking about (not the interview I flubbed, I'm pretty sure I did in fact fuck that up and I'm not going to hear back from them) but I'm not going to talk about it because when I talk about things I jinx them. But I do have one more iron that hasn't been thrown off the fire/melted beyond repair).

People were talking about Chanel's Nazi connections in the FIT Facebook group and it warmed my heart, it did. Someone was really scathing about her and wow I am way to emotionally involved with people knocking down Chanel but it was great to read. They were meaner about her not being The Greatest Designer of All Time than I am, too.

People I know are starting to do the ice bucket challenge and I'm getting nervous that they'll nominate me. D: I can't handle being videotaped anymore.

Just read this post and the comments and am back to being depressed because she has a job and I don't.

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I'm so behind in blogreading, too

e. st v. millay
A couple of days ago, I was waffling over "should I do this corset thing as blog posts, or would it be more responsible to try to publish them?" And what it comes down to for me is:

Published in journal-
Pro: Put on resumé
Con: Unsure if Dress or a women's studies would want it as is, limited readership

Publish on blog-
Pro: Can link to it, can have it up once it's done, immediate feedback
Con: Feel like everyone but me is making professional gains and feel like even writing very good blog posts is not good enough

I go by numbers and not length of whines, so I am almost definitely going to just post it because in the end that seems the most rewarding. I will always be judging myself based on my classmates and always finding myself lacking. I have a book coming out and probably another one later plus that first one that's already done, if that's not good enough for me then having an article in a journal is not going to do it. Move on, Cassidy!

I'm going back and forth on putting works cited at the end of each post. On the one hand,months ago, around the time I posted my Queen Victoria myths post, someone wrote something on their own blog with a prefatory paragraph along the lines of "I see people taking posts seriously when they don't have footnotes/citations and a bibliography, and you should know that that's not academic." And I of course became irrationally concerned that this was pointed at me, and I started obsessively sourcing every factual statement and linking to the specific page in the book when possible. I resist doing bibliographies because I usually use a zillion sources - I go for primary sources and generally end up never finding two facts in one book. But at a glance, it's not clear that I'm linking to GBooks rather than random internet pages. Hm. I think I just use too many sources to create a bibliography for in a blog post.

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/791316.html - comment wherever you please.

Linkdrop

e. st v. millay
I have SO MANY tabs open, it's just getting sad and upsetting. So for my future reference, I'm just going to post them here and keep this one open instead.

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Hard at work

e. st v. millay
Came across references on Tumblr to an article involving a prominent Tumblr tightlacer and unpleasant attention she got from it, went looking for it and found the usual negative-sliding-into-assholish comments, and decided yesterday to write a blog post on the problems with uniting total opposition to corsetry and feminism ... it's now three (3) posts, and since the first 1.5 is very text-heavy, it's probably going to be a lot of words overall. I don't say this sort of thing about my work generally, but I think it's going to be really good.

Is it unethical to screencap people's comments to use as illustrations though.

Was doing book sale stuff with Mom this morning, and she found The Highly Sensitive Person and gave it to me because I am highly sensitive. And reading it reminds me that I really am highly sensitive. If I were in a Victorian novel I would be the hero's cousin who is always attuned to people's needs and keeps being confined to bed because she had too much excitement.

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So go me!

e. st v. millay
Almost finished my dress! Didn't alter much from the pattern - I made the gathers under the bust into two pleats on either side, because I don't think this suiting is light enough to gather well, and I took it in on either side of the waist about an inch (tapered the seam off to the hips, but after trying it on with the bodice, it looks like the hips could come in as well). I should probably start cutting out size twelves, at least in the waist and hips, but that just feels like flirting with fire considering as the pattern packets keep telling me to cut out 18s. I just don't know.

I'm feeling pretty proud of myself for all this sewing lately. It's not that I'm doing especially well, it's just that I've been basically afraid of the sewing machine. There, I admitted it! It moves fast and makes noises and could theoretically put a needle through my finger; I also don't really understand how the bobbin and needle threads interact, which troubles me. I'm a big stickler for accuracy, that's why I do so much handsewing, but the slow pace is something that makes me feel safe. Making pants or an officey dress is a huge step outside my comfort zone, broadening my impression of my abilities and opening up a lot of possibilities, and it's also really heartening to know that pattern instructions are good enough to explain complicated steps to someone who only knows very basic machine techniques.

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Aug. 11th, 2014

e. st v. millay
I would like Misfits S4 more if there were a second female character. Or if Jess at least had more of a personality. But there is a huge Kelly-and-Alisha-sized hole in the show. The revelation that the Rudy of S3 was actually just another magical "side" does make his character more interesting though still obnoxious.

Sewed new tap pants in an afternoon. Except the buttonholes, had to do them by hand because automatic buttonholers are crap, I don't know why I bothered trying. I sort of made up how to do the plackets - afterward I found this, which might have been helpful, and I have an old sewing encyclopedia/dictionary in a box somewhere (possibly the one from that link) which might all help me before next time.

Interestingly, the lawn I used has a bit of tooth and it actually kind of holds down my skirt when I go down the stairs. Huh.

Got my contract in the mail today!!

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Aug. 10th, 2014

e. st v. millay
You know who actually has the best selection of reproduced-from-our-antique-patterns/vintage-style-new-patterns? BUTTERICK. The Patterns by Gertie are just updated enough. This one looks almost exactly like a costume from the Bettie Paige movie with Gretchen Mol, I think.

Down at Dad's. Link is so cute - but it really is a very different perspective of puppyhood, when you're not the kid who just plays with it sometimes. I mean, not that I'm doing all the caring for him, obviously, but I'm just so much more aware of all of that. Funny how age changes you.

I'm rewatching S3 of Misfits as a refresher before watching S4 and S5. I have absolutely no hope that the seasons with no original characters will be watchable, but really what I like the most about the show is the different powers anyway. Just what they come up with. The character stuff hasn't been that entertaining since Simon became cool and Nathan left.

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