Tags: regency

e. st v. millay

(no subject)

Things I like about PastPerfect V: Not opening fields as windows that have to be x'd out to save the record. It's a lot easier to navigate between, say, the People fields of different records this way.

Things I hate about PastPerfect V: THE LAG IS SO MUCH WORSE. I click on a field, type, realize I'm not in edit mode, click edit, oops the first field on the page is now full of irrelevant letters. I swear it's worse in V than IV. Or maybe it's just the networking slowing it down? Maybe I'm unfair.

I have to rant, which I normally don't do while at work, but it's so frustrating. Collapse )

I already know not to let this get under my skin, but it does, it just does.

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e. st v. millay

(no subject)

I didn't get too much sewing done, but I got a lot of logistics figured out. For instance, I now understand how those flat-fronted, undarted (or very small darted) gowns work! They obviously have to be made smaller somewhere in the front, since the upper edge is around the bust point and the width there is bigger than the width at the underbust. But where it's made smaller is at the side-front seams. The front piece is a rectangle, and the underarm piece is slanted on the front edge, pulling it in at the bottom. Sorry if this is just a word jumble, visually it's a real "ohhhhh" moment. Hopefully this can help anyone wanting to make court dress (are you still doing that, [profile] starlightmasque?) or similar.

This pattern is actually my size, which sometimes happens with historical ones but mostly does not. It's pretty cool when it does. Also a little creepy.

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e. st v. millay

(no subject)

My leg hurts even worse today, probably because I did very little for it yesterday and then went for my usual 1.5 mile walk. :( Now instead of just a muscle in my hip, it's also a muscle in my calf and another in my foot.

Yesterday I took the opportunity to finish off my stays à la paresseuse (apart from the hook and eye). They work okay and I'm going to use them for a good while, but there's something awkward/insecure-feeling about them. I think there's not enough pull-back on the shoulders, but also some gusset issues. I didn't cut the slits quite deep enough, and I ALWAYS make the gussets the wrong shape, too triangular, too wide at the top and not wide enough at the bottom. But this is still way better than my terrible thesis stays.

So now I can finally think about dresses! Yes, I could shrinkify my ugly pink striped dress, and I may very well do that once I'm past my shame and horror of it, but for now it's best for me to start fresh. I'm kinda feeling like this could be my moment for trying out silk! 1805-1807 is what I'm looking at as I want to make a sheer round apron/apron dress to go over it, so maybe a medium blue with some kind of narrow trim on the bottom. I'd like to an applied ribbon channel, the precursor to the wadded hem, but I'm not totally sure how to do it.

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e. st v. millay


I told [profile] starlightmasque I would have pictures, and since I just cut down the paint stirrer to fit as a busk, I took them!

Collapse )

Really wrinkly compared to Sabine's, but they are doing what they're supposed to be. Unlike my thesis short stays, they are adequately supportive and also push my stomach in a bit. Yay! Success!

At first, before I cut the busk down, I thought the gussets were too big. But now it seems like they might actually be a bit small. I'm inclined to just go with it, since them being smaller gives me a little push-up. What do you think? Any other (relatively easy-to-fix) issues you see that I've missed?

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/784271.html - comment wherever you please.
e. st v. millay

Fantasy Costuming

In honor of my finishing all that cropping - taking the size of the folder down to 1.7 GB from 5.5 - and my wrist hurting less over the past few days (at least until I accidentally open a door with my left hand or twist it while washing up), I'm fantasizing about sewing white Regency dresses. I could see doing a bodice mock-up ... I'd like to finish that corset, but I have no idea where it is. I looked for it when I was down at Dad's, and it doesn't seem to be there, so I must have it somewhere here. But it probably wouldn't make enough of a difference to a mock-up, really.

Didn't end up working at Clermont on Friday, because it was rainy and I was told to stay home. They ended up jettisoning a few people and moving inside the building. There's some talk of a demo later, though!

Argh argh argh, the corset is completely unfindable. It must be at Dad's. The busk I bought on Etsy is with it, too. I'm looking at Sabine's short stays research (1, 2, 3 - also CorsetraDesigns' corset en x) because I really don't want to duplicate what I have half-done elsewhere. The third short stays post - the Utrecht stays - seems the most likely for me, because it's got a bit of stomach-dampening length, plus no lacing. (Later: paper pattern cut out, muslin to be cut in a bit. This is the weekend, after all.)

Last night, I made gnocchi with tomato sauce - the gnocchi came from a packet, and I think they need spices in them or something. Very bland, and the sauce didn't do it the way sauce does for, say, spaghetti. I wonder why? But I'll have to try making my own at some point to see if they can be more than just a potato vehicle. (I did have sweet potato gnocchi with a walnut cream sauce once that was delicious. Maybe I should try to do that?)

Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/782013.html - comment wherever you please.
e. st v. millay

Today's work

The first dress I patterned was supposedly worn to a ball for the opening of the Erie Canal in 1821 - I believe it. The styling fits perfectly for the date, for one thing. And the bodice is decorated with pink satin dents des loups (bands with zig-zag edges) and chains made of thick, satin-covered cord. It's kind of a stretch, but it seems to me that it's possible for someone to have commissioned chains on their gown for an industrial-related ball. Stop judging me! It makes sense! Anyway, the main fabric is a very light crepe, doubled in the bodice and with no lining. Worn with a slip, or just very light? Not sure. But it's definitely for dancing. And there's a lovely pink belt with a point à la Mary Stuart or Catherine de' Medici or someone historical.

The second is a bit boring, but that's good as I want to represent boring daily wear. Though the high number of stitches per inch is anything but boring - 22-24 in various spots. They're minuscule. Probably 1824 or so? Sleeves very full at the top, lots of very impressively ruched trim applied over the bodice and inserted in the sleeves. I think it's a good addition, but I'm almost certainly going to end up with more patterns than I need for the book just so I can make decisions later.

Then I started in on a camisole/morning jacket(? I haven't done LBA yet, not sure of all the English terms) with teeny weeny Van Rensselaer initials on it. Plain heavy white cotton, excellent condition, and not something that's already been done AFAIK. But I didn't get to pattern the sleeves today as it was suddenly 5 o'clock, so I'll finish it tomorrow. I can't remember what else was left for tomorrow - there's a child's dress (I think) that looks really fancy, and a petticoat, but I might not spend another 4 hours.


Original post: http://chocolatepot.dreamwidth.org/781052.html - comment wherever you please.
e. st v. millay

(no subject)

I just put my finger on an odd tic yesterday, when I started communicating with someone from Match(!): when a guy expresses physical admiration of me based on a couple of photos, I am immediately distrustful. And I'm having a hard time distinguishing between this as a good indicator of a sleazy type and this as a manifestation of self-image issues. :/ And I have a tendency to Charlotte Lucas at people in general - to show more friendliness/attraction/interest than I feel - though it's in an attempt to appear normal rather than because I'm anxious to secure a wealthy husband, so I'm all WHAT ARE YOU DOING and so on. Sigh.

Found an interesting bit in a New York travelogue in JDM, 1822! "The fashions are imitations of those of France. The French quadrilles are also preferred to the boring English columns." (It was originally in English but I can't find it on GBooks.) Obvs I'm not going to take that as definitive proof sans hard evidence, but it's nice to have that out there. Though I'm now even more confused about the possibly-Lafayette-ball dress at AIHA - the trimming and complicated sleeves make the provenance almost definite, but the waistline is pretty high for 1822 (1824? I can't remember), especially if New Yorkers were really following French fashions. Odd. Never mind, I looked at the picture again and the version in my memory was slightly different.

IT IS SO HOT. About 90 today, very humid. Impossible to do anything. I don't even want to think about dressing up at Clermont on Friday, UGH. And all the long-sleeved summer fashion plates are giving me hives.

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e. st v. millay

I want to talk about anything else but I have nothing else to talk about

Probably the most interesting thing I'm taking away right now (I'm in 1805, cropping and reading - stopped taking notes, I tend to be too detailed and waste a lot of time) is that in the 1800s and probably 1810s, the gown really was not that important to fashion. The descriptions are always about ribbons, hats, shoes, hairstyles, and what colors these things are (not hairstyles obvs). While the text is also completely full of crap - one week "oh nobody has short hair anymore it's totally gone", next week "everyone has their hair so short!" (that said there are mentions of wigs, so maybe not entirely crap) - the colors tend to stay within a narrow range each season and it seems like it overall moves pretty slowly. I think it's less that the wealthy bought new gowns frequently and less wealthy women refreshed theirs, and more that everyone expected to retrim, though at different rates.

Chapeaux and capotes are two different things, but it's not totally clear how. AFAICT fur, felt, and straw are only used in hats, and capotes always have a soft crown. I think they may have been sold by different vendors as well. Toques have no brims and toquets have no brims and are made of light fabric, sold by linen-makers.

Today I learned that lol_meme is still using the whole rustling sheets thing. Because I was a failure at life in 2008 (2007?) who thought she would rustle her sheets to try to make her sucky roommate know she was awake and turn off the damn light. That is my lasting contribution to the internet, a new term for being annoyed.

With you in spirit, Julie!

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